Sorry About "Dean" and "Erin"

I hear our namesakes in the Gulf are causing great concern. I can only say, "Nothing personal!"

As promised, some photos from our trip yesterday up to Mauna Kea. Here's Dash and his friend Nathan with his broken wrist).

We traveled down the "belt" road to Hilo, cut North and got on the "saddle" road. The saddle road climbs from sea level to about 6,700 feet (not the 9000 I stated below) as it crosses between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. As we drove up, we hit the cloud layer and could see nothing. The landscape looks fairly young at this point (maybe 150 years of tree and fern growth over a lava flow), and then changes to a more recent lava flow that has very little but moss growing on it. It's like being on another planet. We stopped at mile marker 21 where there is a protected kipuka (an older area like an island that didn't get inundated with lava). Most kipukas are hills, but this one was a big cavity. It was one of few spots where you can still see I'iwi, a kind of rare honeycreeper ( a photo I pulled off the web, by Chandler Robbins). Dean and the boys saw one but I missed it. This kipuka is also the home of the native hawaiian raspberry that grows to the size of a small plumb (see Dash below before he eats one).

We had a snack on the 'a'a (very sharp lava that cut up my toes and fingers) and hollered at the boys to stop exploring on the rocks. This is not a safe place to send kids rock climbing. We continued on and drove above the cloud layer. We emerged onto the saddle with the two mountains towering on either side of us, in a clear blue sky. At about mile marker 28 from Hilo, you can take a right turn and head to the summit of Mauna Kea, over 13,000 feet! We drove up another 6 miles to the Visitor Center at about 9000 feet, where the air was perceptibly thinner and headache producing.

Dash and Nathan played on the computers, learned about the telescopes that are up at the summit, hiked through the protected silversword area and ate some astronaut ice cream. This red hill is neither Mauna Kea nor Mauna Loa, it's one of many pu'us on the saddle that I guess must be remnants from the original eruptions thousands of years ago. It was very red and imposing.

This photo is Mauna Loa viewed from Mauna Kea. Can you see all the black lines? Those are fairly recent lava flows (last 100 years). Our home is on the other side down at 4000 feet. Eeek, I just spent a few minutes Googling "Mauna Loa Eruptions Map" and got myself all freaked out.

Hurricane/Earthquake/Tsunami Follow-Up

The storm was a bust. It's windier here when the tradewinds blow. It got much calmer with the storm. Although it did rain for 4 straight days and nights (this is nothing compared to the 40 days and nights of rain that often happen during the rainy season). Our water catchment is full, which means long, guilt-free showers, even possible car washing. Another earthquake woke us up at about 3am Wednesday morning, my new best friend is http://tux.wr.usgs.gov/Quakes/quakes0.html where I can see all of the area earthquakes. Oh, I see there were two last night fairly close. I don't feel them unless they're in the high 3s. The thrills of living on top of a magma system. The earthquake in Peru put us under a tsunami watch, but nothing happened. I feel so close to nature here.

We're headed up the Saddle Road for some sight seeing today, I promise photos later. The Saddle Road goes up to about 9000 feet and runs between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea between Hilo in the East to Kona in the West. It's narrow, bumpy, windy and winding. Dash's friend, Nathan, is coming with us. Nathan broke his wrist riding his bike in front of our house yesterday, falling in the grass. It's not too serious or he wouldn't be coming with us. It hasn't stopped either of them from talking on the phone with eachother or playing Nintendo.

Storm's a comin'

The outcry of my fans has finally reached my ears. Just a quick note for those of you living vicariously through the Gallaghers, don't want you to lose hope!

I really should be working! As I write this, hurricane "Flossie" is heading this way. I should be nailing plywood to the windows! I should be buying Spam! Did you know it comes in about 10 different varieties? We're trying Hickory Smoke flavored if the power goes out. Did you know we are bracing for a Category 3 hurricane? Did you know we experience our first earthquake? Yep, 5.3. Very exciting. No damage, so I can say that it was exciting.

We had our first Florida visitors last week, the Appelson's-Gary, Susanna and Jessie, from Gainesville. We hiked across Kilauea Iki, went deep in the Thurston Lava Tube, down Kilauea via the Sandalwood trail to the base of the crater floor. We celebrated our 21st anniversary at the Kilauea Lodge (brie fried in coconut with pinapple salsa, Parker Ranch steak, hossenpfeffer, macadamia nut cream cake...). YUM!

Dash had a great first day at school yesterday, but school was cancelled for two days until the hurricane passes. Does this sound like Florida?
Last week, Dash and I went on a new hike together. We drove down Chain of Craters road in the National Park to the Mauna Ulu turnoff (I think Mauna Ulu means Growing Mountain) and hiked across a 1974 lava bed out about a mile to Pu'u Huluhulu (Shaggy Hill) which we climbed up. From its summit we could see east out to smoking Pu'u 'O'o (Literally, "hill of the 'o'o" (a species of native bird, a black honey eater, that is now extinct). It's the farthest hill in the picture of Dash and I. Pu'u 'O'o is the currently active vent.(Dean flew over it in a helicopter a few weeks ago)
Along the trail we saw the biggest ohelo bushes that were "Choke ohelo" which is pidgin english for "many ohelo berries." Ohelo is a kind of cranberry, very tasty, beloved food of the endangered nene (Hawaii's State Bird.) The trail also has many lava tree molds that look alot like Easter Island statues.

Dashiell absolutely loves living here. He and his best friend Nathan ride bikes through the neighborhood, go on hikes in the National Park, take "Dame Chuck" for walks up to the Volcano Winery and of course - Nintendo DS.


Ohelo (pronounced Oh - Hello) is the native Hawaiian cranberry. It grows directly out of lava flows and it tastes delicious! The bushes are protected in Volcanoes National Park so the endangered Nene can have plenty to eat. In our neighborhood across from the park - they are fair game and if you ever get the chance to sample ohelo jam you'll know why.

Dash has already started growing three bushes in flower pots in our back yard.


If any of you are planning a trip to Hawaii be sure to include the Big Island and Volcanoes National Park. We would love to see you and there really aren't many places where you can go from an alpine habitat (sometimes with snow), through tropical rainforests, hike waterfalls, traverse a dry desert and then hit the beach all within one day!

Plenny Alohas!

Tourist Season in Maui

I knew it would happen, I'd get off the plane in Kahului and be assaulted with the smell of plumeria. A scent permanently linked in my brain with the years 1983-1985. Like orange blossoms at night growing up in California. One whiff and I'm playing hide-and-go-seek with 15 neighbor kids until 9pm on a summer night.

Plumerias are: my first job at O'Rourkes Tourist Trap, driving to Lahaina over the Pali, our beautiful house one block from the beach, the dog who came with the house, Pilikia (means Trouble-and he was, we had to find him another home), many sunset walks on the beach, sand in my pantyhose after the Christmas party with Dean (our first fancy "date").

So, Dash and I are staying with my Mom in her new apartment, that has an ocean view (if you stand in the corner of the lanai on your tiptoes), it's beautifully landscaped, doves cooing, franklins cackling(they sound like a tire jack that needs oiling), other little birds chirping, the SMELL of the OCEAN wafting over mixed with the PLUMERIA! I'm gonna SWOON! I don't even care that the size of Kihei has probably tripled over the last 25 years, and there's a constant undertone of traffic (if you use your imagination it sounds like the waves).

Dash and I walked to the beach yesterday, swam for about an hour, then up to Mom's pool. Then ate something, read a book. And then we started all over again. I think that's the plan for today too, and tomorrow, and the day after. Right next door a family is staying with a girl about Dash's age and they are already fast friends.

The atmosphere in South Kihei is the polar opposite of Volcano. And while I miss the four kinds of plants I see up there all the time (Koa, Ohia, Pukeawe, Ohelo), I'm thrilled to be in a beach ecosystem (albeit one planted mostly with non-native ornamentals). No lava here either. Actual white sand.

On Monday I went up to the glorious Kihei Aquatic Center where they have 3 pools and a Masters swim group that meets every evening. I swam about 4000 yards with them on Monday night and I'm still trying to recover the use of the left side of my body, my neck is a tad stiff. I have to turn my whole body to see what's on that side. The Masters join in the workout with the youth, so there I was sharing the lane with a 14 year old girl who kicked my butt the whole 2 hours. It was very enjoyable.

Mom is doing great, enjoying watching cartoons with Dash and playing DragonFable on the computer. We're making a huge pot of Portuguese Bean Soup for dinner tonight.

A hui hou! (this is a huge rainbow we saw driving back to Volcano the other day)

Mochiko Chicken

We must be settling in because the days are starting to go by very quick. It didn't take long to become involved in lots of activities. I'm officially a Sunday School teacher again, grades 4-6, an age group I've never had before.

We went to the 4th of July parade in Volcano Village, it goes from the post office, about 1/2 mile down to the community center. It was mostly dogs and nice and short like a parade should be. I worked at a food booth afterward, dishing out nachos with cheese. Our next door neighbor turned 50 and had a huge party in his back yard, with cool Chinese fireworks that hang from a tree. Sitting in the backyard, looking over at Mauna Loa, I had an Island Living magazine moment.

Dash has made a friend with a delightful boy his age that lives right down the street. He's headed over to play right now. Nathan is an only child too and loves Pokemon--a perfect match. He has also been going to summer camp at his school on Monday's and Thursday's. It's small, mellow, and he seems to like it. It gives me a chance to get my work done and go to Rotary and bible class, which before I was dragging Dash to, and he begged me to take him to summer camp. Sitting through a women's bible class is just way too much to ask of a 9 year old boy.

Yesterday I took the boys hiking in the national park. We drove about 15 miles toward the coast to the Hilina Pali trail. It's about 2.5 miles down the 1500 foot cliff and to the ocean. Some day when we're a little more prepared with food, water and bathing suits, we'll make it a day trip to the ocean. It's difficult to describe and the pictures don't do it justice.

Dean is in Manuka this week with his crew doing Miconia and Coqui frog operations. I spent most of last weekend shopping and preparing a huge tub of potato salad, pasta salad, ribs and such. Dean reminded me that even though I had a lot of starches already, he still needed to provide rice. So I bought a 10-cup rice cooker. Rice is required at every meal here. Not providing rice is like not providing plates. People will look at you funny. Good thing it's cheap.

I've been questioning the local ladies at church for good crowd pleasing local-style foods and discovered some things I never would have tried on my own.

Here's a recipe for Mochiko Chicken, try it, it's ono!

2.5 lb bag of chicken tenders (no skin)
1/2 cup Mochiko (sweet rice flour)

1/4 cup cornstarch

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup sugar

1 tsp salt

2 eggs, beaten

1/2 cup chopped green onions

4 chopped garlic cloves (must use fresh!)
mix everything together (except the chicken) and marinate the chicken in it for 24 hours in the fridge.

Deep fry it untill golden brown. I've never deep fried anything before, so if you know a better way try it-- but I put about an inch of canola oil in a big skillet and fried the chicken pieces. I'm sure this is not the most healthy thing to eat, and it's a lot of work, but try it at least once. If you've ever had Mochi crunch, you'll recognize the flavor in the chicken.

This Monday, Dash and I are flying over to Maui to stay with my mom for the week. I'm excited because there is a masters swim group that meets at a REAL pool with lane separators every evening, right down the road from her condo.

We're off to Hilo for a grocery trip (and to see if we can possibly get in to the first showing of Harry Potter 5 at the movies).

Aloha!

Getting the Routine Down

I've been scolded for going 10 days with no blog. Mostly I've been working. **Clients reading this will be pleased. I found an old desk in the garage and dragged it onto the back porch and set my computer up so I could keep an eye on the dog while she roams the backyard.

We're still in explore mode on the weekends. We haven't gone more than 30 miles East or West of our house. On Saturday, we drove about 6 miles west to the Ka'u Desert trailhead. We hiked about 2 miles in. At first the trail is very obvious-it's a well-maintained gravel path leading to a building that preserves footprints in the hardened ash of a warrior party that died when Kilauea erupted 150 or so years ago. Then the path ends and the trail is marked with lava rock cairns that look alot like all the rest of the piled up lava rocks. On the way back we met a couple who had moved here about 7 months ago-they were walking their rather large Irish Setter. We exchanged air cargo horror stories.

Sunday (Father's Day) we had hula dancers at church, and a big lunch afterwards. This is not trashy touristy hula, more like a group of people doing very rhythmic sign language with ukelele accompaniment. Dean and Dash went home and I did my weekly Hilo trip. I discovered Home Depot. I had the strangest feeling that I'd walk out and be on Capital Circle instead of Puainiko St.

We went to dinner at some friends Dean made when he first got here. There's a group of about 15 people that seem to all know eachother from the park service, or the neighborhood. I met a woman who invited me to the Volcano Rotary Club-it meets at 6:45am at the Volcano House in the park. I think it will be a good way to get involved in the community.

This weekend I want to go to Kona (about 100 miles away) but I think I'll save it for a rainy week. We are going to see a play at the local theater called "Once Upon One Time"- a pidgin musical. I think Dean is taking Dash to volunteer at a community-wide fountain grass-pulling over in Ocean View. We're also meeting with our realtor to put our lot on the market, if we can sell it soon we're going to try to buy in this neighborhood.

Here's my list of obervations about Hawaii so far.
Things you can't get in Volcano:
Postal delivery to your own house.
Trash pick up.
A decent meal for 3 under $70 without driving to Hilo.
A jar of olives for under $5.
Mosquitoes or red ants. None.

Things in abundance:

Rain and mist.

Breathtaking views while jogging along the crater rim trail.

Very friendly people.

Wild turkeys with their chicks wandering through the streets.

Ahi tuna-mountains of it at the grocery store. Really cheap.

50lb bags of rice and gallon jugs of soy sauce.

Lychee fruit trees.

Rainbows.

Millions and millions of stars right down to the horizon at night.

Spectacluar sunsets over Mauna Loa, right out my backdoor.

Quirky beaurocracy:

Every car must get an annual inspection for $15 to insure all the blinkers, brake lights, headlights, horn etc... are in working order. You can't register your car without the sticker. I think it's all a ploy to prop up gas stations. I'm sure you've heard of the powerful gas station attendant's lobby. No?

Overall

Some combination of the quiet, misty rain, sound of wind in the trees, being able to lay in the grass in my own backyard, has allowed me to stop taking Prevacid and Zantac. I've stopped freaking out.

We've had quite an adventurous weekend, from trespassing to caving. Friday we explored more of Volcanoes National Park, getting a nice lungful of sulphur at the Halema'uma'u crater, and then exploring the Thurston Lava Tube. At the end of the tube there's a gate into another tube with no lights. We started walking in, and quickly found ourselves in complete blackness. Some returning hikers gave us their flashlight and we continued to the end, about 1/4 mile later.

Saturday we drove up a private road, following the signs to "The Inn at Kulaniapia Falls" we get to this nice inn, big parking lot, and start following the signs to the Falls (see above). It's a giant waterfall, what else can I say? When we hike back up, our car is blocked by a pick-up, and we finally track down someone, and he's quite irate. Apparently we are trespassing and should have asked permission. We are just dumb tourists. That was a little stressful, we are feeling unwanted on this lovely island.

Today was much better. We ate pancakes at the Volcano Village Farmers Market before church. I bought a HUGE fuschia orchid. Nothing like going to church to make you feel welcome.

Afterwards, I headed down to Hilo to swim and grocery shop. The pool is... je ne sais quoi. It is on the road to Air Cargo, right next to the runway. I think it was abandoned for many years and used as a skateboard park. Because Kawamoto Swim Stadium is under repair, they've re-opened this one. There is no paint on the bottom-all dark concrete (like swimming in a rock quarry)-with barely visible lines on the bottom, but no lane separators. The water was blessedly warm and there were lots of fellow lap swimmers. There is, however, grafitti on the bottom of the pool, and it's kind of freaky when the planes take-off and land. But because there are people there in swim caps and goggles, I feel strangely at home.

Above are pictures of our house, the pool and the waterfall.